508

Fungus, Mildew, Pests (38)

Fungus (44)

Greenfly, blackfly (57)

Peronospora (57)

Red spider (190)

Rust (193)

Watery growth (7)

Sulphur uptake (7)

Colorado beetle, blight (58)

Scab in apples (300)

Apple scab (303)

Mildew (303)

Fungal diseases, brown rot, monilia (303)

Wooly aphis (American blight) (303)

Wooly Aphis (303)

Brown rot (303)

Black Spot (306)

Moulds (58)

Blight (260)

Potato blight (1055)

Blight (1564)

<a href="http://www.knowledgebank.irri.org/training/fact-sheets/pest-management/diseases/item/tungro" target="_blank">Tungro</a> (1755)

Rust (1838)

Phytophthora (1838)

Mouldy courgette leaves (1838)

Botrytis (1838)

Blight (1857)

Sometimes it happens that the moon acts too strongly, and that is when there is too much moisture during the full moon period. Too much life is generated and too much life is as bad as not enough life. The former provides just the right conditions for different so-called plant diseases. Parasites increase, pests appear and fungi. There is too much "moon' in the soil, too many life forces, and we have to re-establish the right balance with equisetum. (38)

The preparation can be used in a similar way to Preparation 501, to reduce excessive water forces around the plants and so reduce the risk of fungal disease. Spray the preapration on the ground around the plants you want to protect just before stress times, for example just before full moon or perigee. (44)

Nettle water in combination with equisetum [508] is useful in fighting pests. The red spider is effectively combatted as also are aphids, especially black fly. (190)

To lift nitrogen-502, 503, 504, 505 evening; 505, 506, 507, 508 morning. (7)

If you want ripening and stocky growth, 508. (7)

To take up sulphur-502 evening, 508 morning. (7)

This year we have been using equisetum D5 to control blight. The season has been generally drier but blight only came in strongly at the end of August when the haul was most tending to die back. (1051)

A neighbour always had blight. I gave his some 508 made by putting the dried herb into cold water and just stirring it occasionally over several weeks. The strained juice smelled good and the neighbour said it worked really well and not just for this harvest but ongoing. It was sprayed on the soil before the potatoes were planted. (UK Exp Circle 2023) (1564)

Maria Thun writes of an attack of rust of barley that fell on widely separated fields on one and the same day. It transpired that on that day the Moon was not only in perigee but also going through its node. The attack was successfully dealt with by spraying with a concoction of equisetum and nettle. Fresh green leaves - half a pund of each - were brought to the boil in 2 litres of water and allowed to boil ofr 20 minutes. Then it was diluted in 10 litres, stirred for an hour like the preparations, and sprayed on in the evening... the barley grew merrily on and the rust spots gradually got smaller (193)

To reduce nitrates & disease-505 evening, with 508 next morning. (7)

For vegetative growth-503, 504 evening, 504, 508 morning. (7)

Certain crops such as lettuce or tomatoes, which have a strong tendency to grow lush and watery, are commonly treated with 508 even in transplant beds or nursery flats. When there have been repeated heavy rains at or just prior to the full moons, 508 may need to be applied to the whole farm. (294)

Biodynamic Remedies for Tomato and Potato Blight: 1. Bring 1 unit #508 (1.5 ounces by weight of dried herb) to boil in 1 gal H2O, and simmer for 1 hr. 2. Cool and transfer to crock or glass container ( metal? plastic?) - Order of preference is clay crock, glass, copper, porcelained metal, non-magnetic stainless steel, other metals, plastic. 3. Store in cool place and let ferment for 10-14 days until starts to smell. 4. To use add 1 part #508 tea (fresh or fermented) to 9 parts water, (rainwater, or if chlorinated expose to sun for a day). 5. Stir for 20 minutes, reversing direction once deep vortex has formed. (about 1-2 times per minute). 6. Early AM or Late PM-Spray on ground with larger droplets on day pertaining to the crop - Fruit for tomato; Root for potato. May be applied as a foliar as well. Adding either with the #508, or separately an application of BD #505 Oak bark preparation (counter to plant diseases) is also very helpful. Stir #505 for not less than 20 minutes. Applications of BD #501 and BD #507 should also be made in the regular course of treating the crops. (260)

We work in a potato blight area (in Dyfed, Wales) and over the years I have done all I can to keep the potatoes free of blight. In addition to equisetum plus diatomaceous earth I have sprayed all the compost preparations as well as diluted juice of raw onion. The best result is achieved by spraying equisetum before ever the potatoes are planted, so as to take from the soil the effect of the wet winter; and the winters are always wet in this country. However, the early application of equisetum without any follow-up sprays is to enough. One application of 500 but several of 501 are also given. (1055)

We thought we'd lost the leek crop it was so brown with rust. At the end of August we added fermented equisetum (only a week old) for the last 20 minutes of the stir of <a href="http://www.considera.org/materiamedicagricultura.php?remtype=3&rem=2">preparation 501</a>. Sprayed on 3 different Thun moon-days. After three weeks the newest bright red rust was all gone but there were scars / spots still on the leaves. 2 weeks later even these had disappeared and everything was becoming green again. Focussed cooperative intention whilst stirring. (1838)

All new shoots were green after the <a href="http://www.considera.org/materiamedicagricultura.php?remtype=3&rem=2">501</a>/fermented 508 mix was sprayed in the greenhouses (1838)

The white on the courgette leaves in September all disappeared with the <a href="http://www.considera.org/materiamedicagricultura.php?remtype=3&rem=9">501</a> which has the fermented equisetum added for the last 20 minutes of the stir. All new growth was a healthy green (1838)

Equisetum was left in cold water in a bucket and stirred most days until the water turned brown and smelled nicely of tea. Sprayed the soil where the potatoes were to be planted. Despite having bad blight for several years previously this worked great - no control (1857)

Among the climbing roses ... were a few Crimson Ramblers which were found every summer to be covered in mildew.... At first they were dusted with sulphur, and the wall against which they grew was washed down with carbolinium. But this did not help matters much ... In 1930 I tried again using freshly-gathered equisetum and boiling it for one hour. With this I watered and sprayed the Crimson Ramblers at the beginning of June when they were white with mildew. After a few days clean young leaves began to appear so glistening clean that it was hard to believe they had sprung form the poor withering plants, but as soon as the third leaves developed they were once more attacked with mildew and all growth ceased. Two days before the next Full Moon I tried again, with the same result, and again in the following month. Each time the young growth appeared healthy but soon got mildewed. In 1931 the roses were treated for the first tim with the biological-dynamic methods with manure and compost, and later were sprayed with 500 and 501. In the same year I saw in a neighbour's garden a Crimson Rambler that had been planted at the same time as mine simply covered with mildew. I went at once to look at once to look at ours. They were quite clean and growing well, only just a touch of white on the stems and calyces of the buds. I at once sprayed them with a tea of dried equisetum and again a few days later, two days before the Full Moon. Soon the buds opened and the blossoms were large and more brilliant colour than ever before, so that people asked if new roses had been planted there. (303)

I have sprayed the roses with equisetum and have had splendid results. Last year the leaves all fell off and the plants looked derelict. This year they were very sturdy looking and flowered most profusely. (305)

The roses were very badly attacked by black spot last year. Frequent doses of equisetum did so much good that there was very little of it this year. (306)

Equisetum (or 501) applied at perigee and when the moon and Saturn are in opposition, help to suppress fungal growth. If they are also sprayed after harvest, they enhance the strength of the next year's fruiting buds (44)

An old grapevine growing up the length of the front of the househas shown signs of peronospora all summer and as aresult lost its leaves early in the Autumn. To heal it, the branches were taken down the same Autumn, stripped of old bark, washed with equisetum tea and tied up again. Before the leaves developed in spring the branches were sprayed with equisetum tea. This treatment was repeated fortnightly throughout the summer, 501 was sprayed during alternate weeks with 508. In Autumn peronospora was still present, but the leaves stayed on longer than the year before. The following year the treatment was repeated and proved highly successful. No traces of peronospora were found any more. In the following years normal treatment could be given; 501 twice in summer and 508 once or twice as a precautionary measure. Peronospora di not recur. (57)

Repeated spraying with equisetum is an important remedy and fungus troubles. Greenhouse tomatoes should be sprayed twice weekly on the soil. The equisetum tea is made more effective if a 2% waterglass solution is used with it (190)

Good for ripening fruit. (7)

Apple trees susceptible to scab are improved by composted pigeon manure. Cutting back sometimes helps, but it depends upon the vitality of the tree. Equisetum tea is also effective. (300)

Gottlieb Grubbele states that "Noticing signs of scab in early summer on several varieties of apples, he took 1 lb of dried equisetum to 16 litres of water, left this to soak for a day or two, and then boiled for half-an-hour. He found this to work faultlessly, and the scab disappeared after 5-6 days. (303)

Gooseberries and delphiniums both suffered both suffered with mildew: the apples and pears from brown rot, and the cherries from monilia. The strawberries were also affected. All these pests have now very greatly decreased: some have quite disappeared, including the monilia on the cherry trees, since we have made use of equisetum. But naturally the improvement is not due only to the equisetum, for since 1928 we have been working with the biological dynamic methods and then all things work together. (303)

I began spraying with equisetum with the waxing Moon. ... The bushes were well doused and also the surrounding soil. The condition of the plants is now very good, and the fruit develops very well, and its healthiness was remarked upon by an experienced dealer, without any previous remarks from me [A Jungbauer]. One can certainly says that very good results can be obtained against gooseberry mildew by the use of equisetum tea combined with preparation 501. (303)

Harold Kabisch ... used this tea twice yearly got rid of the mildew and it has not so far reoccurred. A new plantation then began to show traces of mildew ...this time the treatment was given irregularly. Each time the blight showed itself a 3% application of equisetum was given with good effect and the fruit of the following year was perfectly healthy. (303)

Harold Kabisch states that .... at a garden at Konigsburg all the fruit was badly attacked by brown rot, and had been treated without result by chemical sprays. After a years treatment with the biological-dynamic methods the bush fruit and strawberries did well. An attack of brown rot was immediately sprayed with the equisetum tea.... as no results appeared a fresh brew was made a fortnight later ... after spraying with this the brown rot decreased rapidly and the application proved completely effective. (303)

With all this rain this has been a hard year .... tomatoes and peppers were lost and carrots suffered. Beans survived because he was able to catch them in time with 508 daily. (429)

I just came in from picking a gazillion raspberries. We have been having lousy cold, wet weather. The last last sunny day we had before I knew the weather was turning I was worried about them. I sprayed 508. Amazing. The ones that were moldy just shriveled up and seem to lose their fungus spores. And the ones that were ripening but not quite ready to pick were ready today and almost fungus free. Impressive. We always have some moldy no matter the year because of our weather so what could have been a raspberry disaster appears to be averted with one spray job of 508 mixed with Storch's thalassa. (27/7/2011) (58)

The grey mould on strawberries was addressed with <a href="http://www.considera.org/materiamedicagricultura.php?remtype=3&rem=9">501</a>/508 - the equisetum added for the last 20 minutes of the spray. Sprayed 4 times within 10 days on different Thun moon days. All new berries were fine even if resting against the old mouldy ones! (1838)

Equisetum does not bring the light forces that 501 does so will not encourage plants to shoot to seed. (44)

Recently, by systematic use of preparation 501 together with the other silica preparation of the bio-dynamic method - equisetum tea - a farm in the mountains was able for the first time successfully to cultivate oats (Wuzerhif) (300)

There are no plant diseases in the same sense as that in which we speak of animal diseases. If a plant is diseased it means that the normal contact between the plant and the universe has been disturbed. The plant is originally healthy and we have to bring back the plant to this natural condition. Very often we find that insects, or caterpillars attack plants only when something is not in order in the general life of the plant. To combat these diseases means simply to strengthen the vitality of the plant. (38)

In Australia RW found that using the foliage of the mountain she-oak, Casuarina stricta, as a substitute for equisetum has good results. (44)

We usually spay the Equisetum tea mixed with al ittle clay to make it stick better. It is used prophylactically as a fungicide and against green and blakcfly. When fungus diseases are already in evidence it has to be sprayed repeatedly. Dilution rate 2-3%. [E Riese] (57)

BD 508: Works with amorphous fluid silica to strengthen cell walls, connective tissues and transport vessels. Hardens and prevents weak, watery growth. Used on soil, 508 stimulates mycorrhizal growth. Promotes internal warmth and is good for ripening fruit. (7)

For Frost-507 evening 508 morning. (7)

I have a client used (Aussie version) 508 on his wheat a couple years ago for stripe rust - told me it worked as well as the commercial fungicide - went on easier and cost way less even taking his time in at full value Aussie version = we not allowed to grow equisetum (its a noxious weed ya know) so we use sheoak needles (casaurina) - use the decoction tea not the ferment for above ground spray - its well recognised outside of BD by organic gardeners as a useful anti fungal spray. (13-6-2013) (58)

we start from the premise that the mushroom is the result of an astralisation of the soil (‘the plant does not contain an actual astral body’) that can only be balanced by a silica of plant origin. In this case it would be incorrect to use the forces of silica contained in the 501 because it is of mineral origin and thus is equipped to act at the level of the I. From what we have said then the use of equisetum appears to be correct. (250)

Tungro, ... was controlled by a 'biodynamic' preparation of horsetail (Equisetum arvense). (1755)

Mycorrhizae (7)

Soil preparation for potatoes (442)

Used on soil, 508 stimulates mycorrhizal growth. (7)

Soils should be treated with 508 the Fall [autumn] season prior to planting potatoes, as well as the early spring just prior to planting. (442)

The preparation suggested by Steiner is a decoction and has the ability to bring order in the metabolism of the soil (250)

Fungus (258)

I raise a lot of sunflowers here at Santa Barbara Sprouts and they were very sensitive ... I was having a lot of fungus occurring which was ruining my flats. The compost was prepared under a sycamore tree on a virgin site and seemed to be ready for use. Within one week after reworking the compost and spraying #508 on it a test flat proved to be without fungus and was viable. The problem was eradicated and the Prep #508 was the key. (258)