Wine and Moon
Posted: 05 Nov 2024, 22:26
Can the Moon Affect How Your Wine Tastes? Many Biodynamic Winemakers Think So
A breakdown of the biodynamic winemaking philosophy and the world's best wines to try right now.
By Jessica Dupuy
Have you ever noticed that a bottle of wine you loved one day tasted flat the next? Some believe the culprit may be the lunar calendar.
Biodynamic winemaking goes beyond organic or sustainable farming. Some producers believe it also influences when wine tastes its best. Central to this philosophy is the idea that the lunar calendar divides into “fruit,” “flower,” “leaf,” and “root” days. Proponents say each affects how wine expresses itself. They compare the moon’s pull on wine to its influence on ocean tides.
Fruit days are believed to showcase a wine’s structure and intensity, emphasizing its fruit-forward character. Flower days are said to bring floral notes to the forefront. In contrast, leaf days tend to mute flavors, while root days are considered least favorable for tastings. Wines may appear earthy and closed off.
Many winemakers believe that these cycles create a deeper connection between nature and wine.
“It's not about better or worse,” says Erika Widmann, sales and brand manager for Rootstock Wine Imports in Texas, “but about which qualities are accentuated.”
The lunar calendar can offer wine lovers a new way to explore how a bottle evolves over time.
Biodynamic wine: a brief history
Biodynamic farming, introduced in 1924 by Rudolf Steiner, promotes an agricultural approach in which land, crops, and farmers function as a holistic ecosystem in tune with the moon, sun, and planetary cycles. Steiner proposed that to align vineyard tasks with these rhythms would allow crops to thrive, as they could channel natural energies at the right time.
Biodynamic winemaking goes further than organic farming. Practices include preparing compost in cow horns, which is later mixed with water and sprayed to boost soil health and microbial life. Other preparations include herbal compost teas designed to enhance vine resilience. Advocates say these methods, alongside minimal intervention winemaking and the avoidance of synthetic additives, lab-grown yeasts, and excessive sulfur, allow a wine to authentically reflect its vineyard's terroir.
Winemakers follow the lunar calendar to synchronize their work with nature's rhythms. The biodynamic certification body, Demeter, ensures compliance with these principles with certified estates in regions worldwide.
“There is, of course, more nuance to tasting and why wines evolve,” says Erika Widmann, brand manager for Whole Foods. “But wines made biodynamically tend to ebb and flow more cohesively with the lunar calendar, and it's one way we can make sense of it all.”
A pioneer in the Loire Valley: Nicolas Joly
In the 1980s, Nicolas Joly, of Coulée de Serrant in the Loire Valley, was among the first to embrace biodynamics.
“Most people don't realize that the transformation from bud to grape involves cosmic influences from the sun, planets, and moon,” says Joly.
He draws from the work of Maria Thun, a German farmer whose 1950s research laid the groundwork for biodynamic agriculture. Thun’s studies, published in The Biodynamic Sowing and Planting Calendar, theorized that fire signs (Aries, Leo, Sagittarius) enhance fruiting. Air signs (Gemini, Libra, Aquarius) support flowering, while water signs (Pisces, Cancer, Scorpio) foster leaf growth, and earth signs (Taurus, Virgo, Capricorn) aid root development.
Joly aligns tasks like harvesting grapes and bottling wines with the biodynamic calendar to harmonize with the vine’s energy.
Domaine du Nozay: A family estate in Sancerre
Joly’s cosmic approach represents a philosophy shared by legendary French winemaker Aubert de Villaine of Domaine Romanée Conti. The family estate, built in 1971 around a 17th-century château in Sancerre, France, has inspired countless winemakers such as the influential Cyril de Benoist of Domaine du Nozay.
When de Benoist took over the property from his parents, he slowly began to introduce biodynamic practices and observed how lunar phases affected the vineyard. “It was amazing to see how the vines responded,” he says.
The shift improved soil health and biodiversity, and it deepened the expression of the estate's terroir. He noticed that lunar phases impact tasting.
“It's better to drink our Sancerre Blanc on fruit and flower days for a more aromatic, dense, and balanced experience,” says de Benoist.
On these days, de Benoist says he experiences vibrant notes of citrus, white flowers, and elegant minerality. Through these practices, Domaine du Nozay exemplifies the belief that biodynamics can elevate vineyard health and wine quality. It’s a way to reinforce the connection between nature, winemaking, and the glass of wine.
Gérard Bertrand and the cosmic design of Clos du Temple
In the south of France, Gérard Bertrand applies these principles across his many estates in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. One of his most remarkable projects is Clos du Temple, a winery that reflects his deep belief in the connection between nature and the cosmos.
Its barrel room features pyramid-shaped vats aligned with the stars, designed to channel cosmic energy during the wine’s aging process. Bertrand believes this structure helps the wine reach its potential.
Tradition meets innovation in Chianti Classico
Biodynamics extends far beyond France. In Italy's Chianti Classico, a region steeped in tradition, biodynamics is making an impact.
Querciabella, located in the heart of central Tuscany, has practiced biodynamic viticulture since 2000. Its winemaker, Manfred Ing, has employed biodynamic practices for about a decade.
“While we do not strictly adhere to its principles, we embrace the concept of the farm as a living organism with a holistic approach that sees fields, plants, animals, soil, and even people as interconnected elements, all working together to create a harmonious environment,” says Ing.
Querciabella’s wines are often described as true expressions of terroir that reflect the nuances of their environment and the effects of biodynamic practices.
Millton Vineyards: New Zealand's biodynamic pioneer
Millton Vineyards is the first biodynamic vineyard in New Zealand, led by Annie Millton. Since the 1980s, Millton has championed biodynamic practices. She believes that cosmic rhythms and lunar cycles influence both vineyard health and the wine’s expression.
Millton encourages experimentation with lunar tasting days, as she believes that they can enhance the wine’s vitality.
Millton Vineyards has long reflected the principles of natural farming. It leverages the adage that they farm as if they are “the rooftop to another kingdom,” one that includes microbes, fungi, and essential nutrients. This approach highlights that a self-sustaining ecosystem can contribute to healthier vines and more expressive wines.
Limited Addition Wines: Intentional winemaking in Oregon
In Oregon's Willamette Valley, master of wine Bree Stock produces low-intervention bottlings under the appropriately named label Limited Addition Wines. Stock highlights the value of observation and timing in biodynamic winemaking to best align vineyard activities with natural shifts.
“A lot of the time when flower days or fruit days are occurring, I also observe that they tend to be less cloudy or stormy days,” she says. “Barometric pressure also plays a big role. I won't taste or do blending exercises when a big shift is coming because it hampers the aromatics and fruit components in the wine.”
Stock also points to other Oregon producers like Troon Vineyard and Kelley Fox Wines for their efforts in biodynamics.
A global phenomenon
While lunar tasting days remain niche, they intrigue many wine lovers. Whether the effects are scientific or psychological, the practice can add depth to wine appreciation. The next time you open a bottle, check the lunar calendar. It might be a fruit day. Your wine just might taste a little more alive.
Biodynamic wines to try
2022 Famille Joly 'Clos de la Coulée de Serrant' Monopole Coulée de Serrant. Loire Valley, France ($170)
The 2022 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Chenin Blanc offers a layered expression of its Loire Valley origins. Grown biodynamically by the Joly family on steep, schist- and quartz-rich slopes, this wine reflects a balance of richness and structure. Melon and quince flavors lead, accompanied by dried tea leaves, bitter orange, and herbs. Earthy white mocha notes and subtle hints of cider appear on the finish, with alpine herbs that lend freshness. Perceptibly sweet, the wine's 32 grams of residual sugar provide depth without overpowering its savory energy. It makes the wine textured and precise, with excellent aging potential.
2022 Domaine du Nozay Clos du Nozay ($65)
The 2022 Clos du Nozay offers a vibrant expression of Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre's Terres Blanches soils. Grown on steep, sun-soaked southern slopes, the wine develops beautifully through vinification in terracotta jars, which allow slow, natural aeration that enhance purity and aromatic complexity. Expect layers of citrus zest, white flowers, and wet stone, with a bright, mineral-driven palate and crisp acidity. This cuvée captures the essence of its terroir, as it delivers elegance, energy, and a long, refined finish.
2022 Gerard Bertrand Clos du Temple ($160)
This pale, glimmering rosé is crafted in the Cabrières region of Languedoc, known as the birthplace of rosé. Grown biodynamically, the vines benefit from the site’s mix of schist, limestone, and natural water circulation, which supports balanced growth. Harvested by hand at sunrise to preserve freshness, the wine reveals notes of fleshy apricot, rose, and pepper. Aged on fine lees in new barrels, it offers delicate structure with a refined finish of matchstick and wet stone. An excellent pairing for grilled lobster.
2020 Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva ($59)
This Riserva exemplifies the elegance of Chianti Classico. Sourced from organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards in the villages of Greve, Radda, and Gaiole, this wine balances complexity and finesse. The bright magenta hue opens to notes of savory herbs, fennel seed, ripe Bing cherry, and minerality. Medium-bodied with fine tannins, this wine showcases refreshing vibrance and a lingering orange peel finish. This Riserva promises longevity, aging gracefully for 15-plus years.
2020 Millton Vineyards Clos de Ste. Anne La Bas Chenin Blanc ($78)
The Clos de Ste. Anne showcases Millton's commitment to terroir-driven winemaking, as it draws from volcanic ash-rich loam and calcareous soils on northeast-facing slopes. This vineyard, the first to greet the sun each day, produces wines with aromas of honey, pear, and beeswax, alongside savory notes of wool and starched linen. It’s fermented with native yeasts and aged sur lie for nine months in large barrels. The wine offers crisp acidity, clipped stone minerality, and refreshing, textured tannins. It finishes with a lift of quince and great length.
2021 Limited Addition Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, ($58)
Limited Addition Wines was created on the notion that the Willamette Valley has the potential to grow many different global grape varieties, including Gamay. This juicy red wine shows quite differently from its Beaujolais counterparts. Grown in the marine sedimentary soils of Chehalem Mountain, this wine is rich in color, heft, and vibrancy. It offers notes of blueberries and plum, and it has a peppery spice on the finish.
A breakdown of the biodynamic winemaking philosophy and the world's best wines to try right now.
By Jessica Dupuy
Have you ever noticed that a bottle of wine you loved one day tasted flat the next? Some believe the culprit may be the lunar calendar.
Biodynamic winemaking goes beyond organic or sustainable farming. Some producers believe it also influences when wine tastes its best. Central to this philosophy is the idea that the lunar calendar divides into “fruit,” “flower,” “leaf,” and “root” days. Proponents say each affects how wine expresses itself. They compare the moon’s pull on wine to its influence on ocean tides.
Fruit days are believed to showcase a wine’s structure and intensity, emphasizing its fruit-forward character. Flower days are said to bring floral notes to the forefront. In contrast, leaf days tend to mute flavors, while root days are considered least favorable for tastings. Wines may appear earthy and closed off.
Many winemakers believe that these cycles create a deeper connection between nature and wine.
“It's not about better or worse,” says Erika Widmann, sales and brand manager for Rootstock Wine Imports in Texas, “but about which qualities are accentuated.”
The lunar calendar can offer wine lovers a new way to explore how a bottle evolves over time.
Biodynamic wine: a brief history
Biodynamic farming, introduced in 1924 by Rudolf Steiner, promotes an agricultural approach in which land, crops, and farmers function as a holistic ecosystem in tune with the moon, sun, and planetary cycles. Steiner proposed that to align vineyard tasks with these rhythms would allow crops to thrive, as they could channel natural energies at the right time.
Biodynamic winemaking goes further than organic farming. Practices include preparing compost in cow horns, which is later mixed with water and sprayed to boost soil health and microbial life. Other preparations include herbal compost teas designed to enhance vine resilience. Advocates say these methods, alongside minimal intervention winemaking and the avoidance of synthetic additives, lab-grown yeasts, and excessive sulfur, allow a wine to authentically reflect its vineyard's terroir.
Winemakers follow the lunar calendar to synchronize their work with nature's rhythms. The biodynamic certification body, Demeter, ensures compliance with these principles with certified estates in regions worldwide.
“There is, of course, more nuance to tasting and why wines evolve,” says Erika Widmann, brand manager for Whole Foods. “But wines made biodynamically tend to ebb and flow more cohesively with the lunar calendar, and it's one way we can make sense of it all.”
A pioneer in the Loire Valley: Nicolas Joly
In the 1980s, Nicolas Joly, of Coulée de Serrant in the Loire Valley, was among the first to embrace biodynamics.
“Most people don't realize that the transformation from bud to grape involves cosmic influences from the sun, planets, and moon,” says Joly.
He draws from the work of Maria Thun, a German farmer whose 1950s research laid the groundwork for biodynamic agriculture. Thun’s studies, published in The Biodynamic Sowing and Planting Calendar, theorized that fire signs (Aries, Leo, Sagittarius) enhance fruiting. Air signs (Gemini, Libra, Aquarius) support flowering, while water signs (Pisces, Cancer, Scorpio) foster leaf growth, and earth signs (Taurus, Virgo, Capricorn) aid root development.
Joly aligns tasks like harvesting grapes and bottling wines with the biodynamic calendar to harmonize with the vine’s energy.
Domaine du Nozay: A family estate in Sancerre
Joly’s cosmic approach represents a philosophy shared by legendary French winemaker Aubert de Villaine of Domaine Romanée Conti. The family estate, built in 1971 around a 17th-century château in Sancerre, France, has inspired countless winemakers such as the influential Cyril de Benoist of Domaine du Nozay.
When de Benoist took over the property from his parents, he slowly began to introduce biodynamic practices and observed how lunar phases affected the vineyard. “It was amazing to see how the vines responded,” he says.
The shift improved soil health and biodiversity, and it deepened the expression of the estate's terroir. He noticed that lunar phases impact tasting.
“It's better to drink our Sancerre Blanc on fruit and flower days for a more aromatic, dense, and balanced experience,” says de Benoist.
On these days, de Benoist says he experiences vibrant notes of citrus, white flowers, and elegant minerality. Through these practices, Domaine du Nozay exemplifies the belief that biodynamics can elevate vineyard health and wine quality. It’s a way to reinforce the connection between nature, winemaking, and the glass of wine.
Gérard Bertrand and the cosmic design of Clos du Temple
In the south of France, Gérard Bertrand applies these principles across his many estates in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. One of his most remarkable projects is Clos du Temple, a winery that reflects his deep belief in the connection between nature and the cosmos.
Its barrel room features pyramid-shaped vats aligned with the stars, designed to channel cosmic energy during the wine’s aging process. Bertrand believes this structure helps the wine reach its potential.
Tradition meets innovation in Chianti Classico
Biodynamics extends far beyond France. In Italy's Chianti Classico, a region steeped in tradition, biodynamics is making an impact.
Querciabella, located in the heart of central Tuscany, has practiced biodynamic viticulture since 2000. Its winemaker, Manfred Ing, has employed biodynamic practices for about a decade.
“While we do not strictly adhere to its principles, we embrace the concept of the farm as a living organism with a holistic approach that sees fields, plants, animals, soil, and even people as interconnected elements, all working together to create a harmonious environment,” says Ing.
Querciabella’s wines are often described as true expressions of terroir that reflect the nuances of their environment and the effects of biodynamic practices.
Millton Vineyards: New Zealand's biodynamic pioneer
Millton Vineyards is the first biodynamic vineyard in New Zealand, led by Annie Millton. Since the 1980s, Millton has championed biodynamic practices. She believes that cosmic rhythms and lunar cycles influence both vineyard health and the wine’s expression.
Millton encourages experimentation with lunar tasting days, as she believes that they can enhance the wine’s vitality.
Millton Vineyards has long reflected the principles of natural farming. It leverages the adage that they farm as if they are “the rooftop to another kingdom,” one that includes microbes, fungi, and essential nutrients. This approach highlights that a self-sustaining ecosystem can contribute to healthier vines and more expressive wines.
Limited Addition Wines: Intentional winemaking in Oregon
In Oregon's Willamette Valley, master of wine Bree Stock produces low-intervention bottlings under the appropriately named label Limited Addition Wines. Stock highlights the value of observation and timing in biodynamic winemaking to best align vineyard activities with natural shifts.
“A lot of the time when flower days or fruit days are occurring, I also observe that they tend to be less cloudy or stormy days,” she says. “Barometric pressure also plays a big role. I won't taste or do blending exercises when a big shift is coming because it hampers the aromatics and fruit components in the wine.”
Stock also points to other Oregon producers like Troon Vineyard and Kelley Fox Wines for their efforts in biodynamics.
A global phenomenon
While lunar tasting days remain niche, they intrigue many wine lovers. Whether the effects are scientific or psychological, the practice can add depth to wine appreciation. The next time you open a bottle, check the lunar calendar. It might be a fruit day. Your wine just might taste a little more alive.
Biodynamic wines to try
2022 Famille Joly 'Clos de la Coulée de Serrant' Monopole Coulée de Serrant. Loire Valley, France ($170)
The 2022 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant Chenin Blanc offers a layered expression of its Loire Valley origins. Grown biodynamically by the Joly family on steep, schist- and quartz-rich slopes, this wine reflects a balance of richness and structure. Melon and quince flavors lead, accompanied by dried tea leaves, bitter orange, and herbs. Earthy white mocha notes and subtle hints of cider appear on the finish, with alpine herbs that lend freshness. Perceptibly sweet, the wine's 32 grams of residual sugar provide depth without overpowering its savory energy. It makes the wine textured and precise, with excellent aging potential.
2022 Domaine du Nozay Clos du Nozay ($65)
The 2022 Clos du Nozay offers a vibrant expression of Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre's Terres Blanches soils. Grown on steep, sun-soaked southern slopes, the wine develops beautifully through vinification in terracotta jars, which allow slow, natural aeration that enhance purity and aromatic complexity. Expect layers of citrus zest, white flowers, and wet stone, with a bright, mineral-driven palate and crisp acidity. This cuvée captures the essence of its terroir, as it delivers elegance, energy, and a long, refined finish.
2022 Gerard Bertrand Clos du Temple ($160)
This pale, glimmering rosé is crafted in the Cabrières region of Languedoc, known as the birthplace of rosé. Grown biodynamically, the vines benefit from the site’s mix of schist, limestone, and natural water circulation, which supports balanced growth. Harvested by hand at sunrise to preserve freshness, the wine reveals notes of fleshy apricot, rose, and pepper. Aged on fine lees in new barrels, it offers delicate structure with a refined finish of matchstick and wet stone. An excellent pairing for grilled lobster.
2020 Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva ($59)
This Riserva exemplifies the elegance of Chianti Classico. Sourced from organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards in the villages of Greve, Radda, and Gaiole, this wine balances complexity and finesse. The bright magenta hue opens to notes of savory herbs, fennel seed, ripe Bing cherry, and minerality. Medium-bodied with fine tannins, this wine showcases refreshing vibrance and a lingering orange peel finish. This Riserva promises longevity, aging gracefully for 15-plus years.
2020 Millton Vineyards Clos de Ste. Anne La Bas Chenin Blanc ($78)
The Clos de Ste. Anne showcases Millton's commitment to terroir-driven winemaking, as it draws from volcanic ash-rich loam and calcareous soils on northeast-facing slopes. This vineyard, the first to greet the sun each day, produces wines with aromas of honey, pear, and beeswax, alongside savory notes of wool and starched linen. It’s fermented with native yeasts and aged sur lie for nine months in large barrels. The wine offers crisp acidity, clipped stone minerality, and refreshing, textured tannins. It finishes with a lift of quince and great length.
2021 Limited Addition Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, ($58)
Limited Addition Wines was created on the notion that the Willamette Valley has the potential to grow many different global grape varieties, including Gamay. This juicy red wine shows quite differently from its Beaujolais counterparts. Grown in the marine sedimentary soils of Chehalem Mountain, this wine is rich in color, heft, and vibrancy. It offers notes of blueberries and plum, and it has a peppery spice on the finish.