Greg Willis on peppering, weeds and more

This forum is for airing research, impressions, concerns and other related aspects with others interested in minimising weeds and pest issues using peppers and remedies.
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Greg Willis on peppering, weeds and more

Post by Mark » 21 Dec 2006, 10:43

[Greg is a member of this list but is extremely busy - see his web site to see what he is doing. BUt if you read all the posts below which are from the BdNow discussion list you will see this is also posted with his permission.]


12/8/06

Ralph Riva, former V.P. for Agricultural Services at Wente Vineyards and Winery in Livermore, CA a few years ago found that if he sprayed his wine grape vines with sugar water, the leafhoppers disappeared. The reason for this is that insects like the leaf hopper can't burp. When they eat anything high in Brix (sugar), they create gas in their gut, which they can't expel, so they explode. They know this happens so they avoid plants high in sugar.

Unfortunately, Ralph never revealed the dilution rate or how to make it. So, one of my customers in Los Angeles experimented with this and found that if he made a sugar-water solution at 16 Brix and sprayed it on his vines, the leafhoppers, both Blue Green and Glassy Winged Sharp Shooters left his vineyard. Ralph told me that he got the leaves up to 14 Brix.

So, the next time someone tells you to kill all the sharpshooters with an insecticide, you can tell THEM what to do.
GW

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Post by Mark » 21 Dec 2006, 10:44

28/8/06
Go to my website at www.gwagriculture.com and download my Astronomical Gardening Guide. Burn the seeds on a seed day. If you spray D9, you will end the cycle of the plant you are trying to get rid of. If you use D10, you will begin the restoration cycle anew that that plant is supposed to bring. Spray both and you get the best of both worlds. Be sure to apply the seeds of another crop to take the place of the ones you are trying to get rid of. You can find some of this info in Arden Andersen's book on farming.
The difference between D9 and D10 is enormous. Don't waste your time with Thun's recommendations. She's incompetent. Spray twice a year with 9 and 10 and less than a year, you will see results. Apply at the full moon to counteract the lunar germination forces, or at the new moon to counteract the reproductive forces. First and third quarter lunar times don't work as well.

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Post by Mark » 21 Dec 2006, 10:46

26/08/06

Hi Allan,
I'm not sure if I understand your question. So let me start with the basics and maybe that will answer your question and those of others who are following this thread.

Ashing or burning the reproductive organs of a plant is, according to Steiner's lectures, an effective way to remove that particular plant from your property. Now, keeping in mind, and I'm jumping ahead a little here, that each and every plant has a role to play in the environment, and that the removal of any one species will effect the ecology of the entire area. In other words, if you remove a plant that is supposed to contribute nitrogen, Nature will, next year, bring in another species to do the same thing. If you don't know and understand the role of the plant you want to remove, and replace it yourself with a species that is more acceptable to you or your animals, then Nature will make the selection. This is usually, IME, a more noxious plant most of the time.

Background: All biologists know that any environment in nature is always progressing toward homeostasis, a steady state as it is known. All climax forests, for example, exhibit a "steady state". That is the state where the land, plants and animals in any given area are in such balance and harmony that they become self-sufficient, self-maintaining. At this state, only a massive change in the environment will alter the life cycle and self-sufficiency of that area. They are stable in virtually any and all conditions.

If you study Dr. Steiner's lectures on this subject, you see that he had a complete understanding of this concept and natural law when he advised that a farm should become an "organism", self-sufficient. So you see?

So, by altering the mix of plants that you grow on your property, you may, or may not, be moving your area forward toward homeostasis or a more steady state. Since the basis for this is soil conditions first, Dr. Steiner understood the importance of compost to speed this process along.

Thus we have, in the ideal, a condition where the soil eventually becomes as it would in its pristine state due to the improvement of the soil through compost and the wise and knowledgeable selection of vegetation and animal/insect populations, not to mention the careful management of the farmer/grower/gardener/landholder.

What this leads us to conclude is that the decision to ash, or burn the reproductive organs of a plant (per Steiner) is, or should be, a carefully thought out option, not some willy-nilly "I'll get rid of that dam weed no matter what it takes" solution.

If you do ash something, you should ALWAYS take care to replace it with a species that is more acceptable.

Now, I have found that burning seeds or stolons on a seed day on my calendar is preferable to Dr. Steiner's instructions since it is a far more flexible method and works just as well or better.

Step-by-step, here is what you do. Collect the seeds or stolons, the reproductive organs of such plants as Bermuda grass (they would be burned on a "root" day – and forget using Stella Natura or Thun's worthless calendars for this), when they are as fully formed as you can get them. The more mature, the better.

Build a fire using wood, preferably, something non toxic at least, and then take a tin can, set it in the coals to remove all the paper and interior lining. When it is clean and free of residue inside the can especially, carefully take it out of the fire, let it cool and put your seeds or roots into the can, then place it back in the coals again. Burning the seeds this way allows you to collect their ash more conveniently and they don't mix with the charcoal or ash in your "cooker". Personally, I use a Weber grill. You can build a fire pit. Doesn't matter.

At first, you will see the seeds smoking, then some fire inside the can, then eventually, in about 10 minutes, you'll see ash forming. No doubt you will have to stir the contents of the can so that it burns thoroughly, which is vital for a successful burn. Now, I normally collect the equivalent of 100 to 200 ml. of ash, which means that the volume is around 8 to 10 ounces. I do this because, AFTER you collect the ash, you should take a mortar and pestle and grind it to a finer flour like consistency, the end result being in volume, the equivalent of 100 ml.

Then what I do, is take a 1 quart (or 1 liter) clear glass bottle with a plastic lid, pour all 100 ml. of the dried ash into it, then, in my case, add Mountain Valley Spring Water to it until it is full to within about 3/4" from the top. You need some air in it to make it work right.

I don't use just any bottle either. Cosmo round bottles, in my experience, work best. If you use the vertical method of succussing taught by Peerless Peter Bacchus, you will note that on the upstroke, a vortex forms in the water. On the down stroke, when it hits bottom, the vortex is broken up. Thus, you are duplicating exactly what Dr. Steiner said to do with stirring preps in a bucket or barrel. Create a vortex (order), break it up(chaos). "Dr." Bacchus taught me to do it this way for 2 and a half minutes each dilution.

When you have finished the first dilution, immediately pour out 100 ml. into a measured beaker (this will be the "mother tincture") and pour it into the next empty bottle. You do this immediately since you want as much of the particulate matter (the ash) in the next level of potency as possible. You do it this exact way each step up the ladder. The add fresh water in the same way you did it the first time.

DO NOT use chlorinated water or processed water of any kind to do this. That includes distilled water and reprocessed city water often sold as bottled water. Use ONLY natural spring water, or, if you wish, clean, filtered rain water. Since you are using water to make these dilutions, the cleaner the source, the less likely you will grow algae in your bottles when you store them. I have some ash bottles that have been sitting under my workbench for 3 years now and still no algae in them. Algae won't hurt anything, but it is annoyance. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use alcohol to make ANY kind of homeopathic remedy that you spray on plants. They work against each other.

Recently, I had a discussion about this with a gentleman in Australia who was using alcohol remedies in his field broadcaster. I pointed out that this would create burned edges on the leaves of his crop, which he confirmed was actually happening. PLANTS DON'T DRINK ALCOHOL, PEOPLE DO!

OK. Let's say you want to use D9. The D9 potency takes a plant to its normal "conclusion" of it's life cycle in the field. In other words, at that level, the plant is tricked into believing that it is no longer required to live in that field, and simply dies out, in a sense. At D10, you are beginning a new, embryonic so to speak, life cycle for that plant species in that location. If you apply both potencies, you will get better results, but D9 should be sufficient in most cases. You can anticipate that the species you've selected will no long grow there within 3 years.
The shelf life of your homeopathic dilution is a minimum of 5 years, assuming they haven't been exposed to high electrical current or x-ray radiation.

Now, as for mixing. Apply 3.4 ounces (100 ml.) per acre. This is not a hard and fast rule. You can go as low as 50 ml. or as high as 150 ml. per acre with equal success. BTW, it's always best to apply the Steiner prep field sprays first. If you are using my products, which you should be using since they are significantly better than the raw preps, spray what we call the "Sonoma Sequence". If you are not using my products, apply stirred 500, 501 and Horn Clay - IN THAT ORDER, as close to each application as humanly possible, not waiting for a year or two to do it as some ignoramuses recommend, but minutes or hours, THEN apply the weed pepper homeopathic spray.

No matter what Thun says, if you do it this way, you only need to apply it once in the Spring, and once in the fall. To me, three applications is a waste of time. But, if that's what you want to do, by all means do it.

WHAT YOU THINK, YOU GROW.

How much water you put in your sprayer is dictated by your sprayers application rate per acre. With hand-held trigger sprayers, applying a squirt of the CONCENTRATE every 10 or15 feet in a square pattern works fine. If you use a backpack sprayer with continuou sspraying, it's been my experience that you will need 3 to 5 gallons per acre, depending on the size and number of tips you use Solo has a boom attachment that 2 or 4 tips available to them. In that case, you need to walk an acre or a measured part of an acre to determine what your output is. If you are using a mechanical spray, such as one mounted on an ATV, behind and ATV or on or behind a tractor, again you must take the time to measure how much clean, unchlorinated water it puts out per acre.

Then, after you have mostly filled the tank, add your D9 weed pepper spray to it in the amount required to spray the acreage (or gardenage) you equipment will cover at the speed and pressure you selected.

Be sure to spray at the new moon or the full moon to take advantage of those forces.

Save whatever remedy material you have left, i.e the bottles, in a cardboard box, away from direct sunlight. when you want some more D9, just shake up a new batch. I have base material I still use that is 6 years old and still has all the potency it did when it was created, but that's another story. When you make a fresh batch, it will be just as potent as the last batch.

I get my 1 qt. bottles and caps from Napa Fermentation, in Napa, CA(http://www.napafermentation.com/). A case of 12 costs about $40 delivered. Talk to Colleen. She knows the drill. Specify "Cosmo Round" bottles and plastic caps with teflon liners. Don't worry about the teflon. It has no effect on the sprays and is far safer for the preps than metal caps which will make them weaker. You can use standard plastic lined caps if that is your preference, but unless the liner is "food grade", it will off-gas chlorine into your water.

DO NOT STORE ever, ever, ever your preps in a building with a metal roof. It will weaken the preps in the same way that storing them in metal containers will. Placing the potentized remedies in closed, cardboard boxes, IMO, achieves the same result as storing the raw preps in in peat moss. You could store your remedies in peat moss but it's messy and if you use them frequently like I do, it's a hassle not worth the trouble for an insignificant benefit.
The purpose of potentizing the ash or pepper is to make much more of this material from a very small amount, which is far more efficient than what Dr. Steiner said, which was to shake the weed "pepper" around your property. It is also possible to get complete coverage this way. Each step up in the potency process makes 10 times more spray. So you can see, as Peerless Peter once said to me, it's "like printing money". You can make trillions of ounces out of one ounce of the base material.

A very small amount of spray is required to accomplish success. Or, you can use a lot. You could spray one pint per acre, or 100 gallons per acre of the spray as long as the CONCENTRATE (the potency you select) in the spray is applied at 100 +/- ml. per acre. You could use 1,000 gallons of the carrier water (water mix) per acre and get the same result as 3.4 ounces of the concentrate per acre.

Believe me, I and my customers do this all the time. A hand sprayer is the cheapest, fastest and best way to apply these sprays on less than acre. Use a backpack spray for 2 to 10 acres. Over that, use a mechanical or electric sprayer on an ATV or Tractor for most efficient application.

Again, the entire process of relieving your field should take 1 to 3 years. But remember this. That plant is there to contribute to the fertility of the field. They tell you something about the health of the field and your management. For example, all over California, you'll find very, very pointed and sharp thistles. Everybody bitches about this. In fact, thistles are Nature's barbed wire. They are telling you to "STAY OUT", "KEEP OFF THE PROPERTY". Let Mom Nature do what she does and fix it. What she is saying is that the soil there is not good and should be left alone to come back to its most natural and beneficial state.

Dr. Steiner, with his preps and compost, said, "you can speed up this process and here's the tools to do it". Never forget YOUR role in this process. Getting rid of one "problem" can raise more problems if you don't use your knowledge, experience, wisdom and intuition to fix it. In other words, getting rid of one problem COULD create more serious problems for you if you don't think it through to its obvious conclusion, and take the steps to prevent more problems. If you do think it through before you start, you'll get far better results.

Remember, as Dr. Carver recommended, 20 cubic yards of compost per acre goes a very, very long way toward establishing homeostasis and a self-sufficient farm. (When the greatest horticulturist who ever lived, Luther Burbank, started up his 5 acre experimental farm in Santa Rosa, CA in 1883, he brought in 200 cubic yards of cow manure for this small place! That's 40 cubic yards an acre! The man knew exactly what he was doing.)
Make your compost this way: two piles, one green, one brown. Make them the same size. In the brown pile, accumulate straw or spoiled hay. In the green pile, mix 6 parts fresh cow manure, 2 parts fresh horse manure without wood chips, 1 part bird manure, either chicken or turkey, and one part gleanings and leftovers from the crop you want to fertilize. If you can't get fresh, do the best you can. Dampen the two piles, mix them together, cover with a dusting of dirt, insert the raw compost preps or spray our Compost Invigorator? on the outside of the pile (my sprays are prepared homeopathcally in water with all 6 preps plus Equisetum), cover the pile with 12" of pulled apart straw (not biskets or flakes) and leave it until it turns into humus. You need a minimum volume of one cubic yard to make compost.

This is a universal formula that can and should be used everywhere. By adding one part of the leftovers from your garden, or, in the case of wine-grapes, the grape pumice, you are giving your plants humus they recognize as their normal food. Always remember that plants eventually eat themselves. So by putting some of them in your compost, you are giving them their natural food. If you wish, and I've been doing this for some 25years, you can add TRACE amounts of minerals to your pile. Be very careful with this. Too much volume of minerals can actually create the opposite effect you want. Especially if you are using Steiner's preparations. I recommend no more than a hand full or two per cubic yard.

For those certified organic growers who must comply with the NOP stardards requiring the regular stirring of compost, simply call it raw manure and you can get around that NOP regulation. Static piles take longer, but you get a considerably higher quality product that's far more beneficial for your crop.

You CANNOT weed pepper without concurrently applying compost. It simply will not help you.

Add beneficial compost to the place where you peppered, replace the species you don't want with one you can live with by over-seeding or direct seeding, always use companion planting and cover cropping, pay attention to the lunar cycles and remember - WHAT YOUTHINK, YOU GROW.

I hope this answers your questions sufficiently. If not, please get back to me.

Greg

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Post by Mark » 21 Dec 2006, 10:48

31/8/06

Pieter,

(taking a break from bottling here)

Well. This opens up a whole new, but related area. It is a biological fact that fields and forests, rivers and streams and lakes and oceans are, in the Nature of things, always moving toward homeostasis or a steady state. To get there, Nature employs one basic strategy which is to bring in plants and animals one at a time or groups at a time, each able to live in the particular ecosystem in which they find themselves, but for the most part, only temporarily.


Each plant has a role to play in the development of soils and systems, thus we have a range of plants from pioneer plants to climax plants and everything in between. Weeds are plants we don't want in our own ecosystem. To remove them before they have completed their tasks or roles simply slows this developmental process down.

As each plant dies, it leaves a residue of minerals, enzymes, hormones, sugars, lipids, proteins, lignins, elements, chlorophyll, energy patterns from the astral and causal planes, ideas, emotions, karmic vibrations and so on. Each of these is a building block in the development and evolution of soils.

Minerals, soils and plants all can accumulate Karma vibrations. Pure elements cannot, for if they did, the roles they play would be compromised. Steiner's preparations eliminate all Karma in minerals, soils and plants on contact. Something to keep in mind if, say, you wanted a battlefield to heal.

As soil conditions improve, different plants come in and others go their way. The same applies to animals and there is a change in the mineral mix in the soil and the soil structure as well. Sometimes even the air above changes as, for example, trees alter wind conditions, forcing the wind around and over them, or shrubs in dunes cater to the collection of more nutritional elements on the leeward side.

What we as gardeners and farmers call weeds are simply plants we don't want around. But Mom Nature does, because they contribute to the health of the soil and the ecosystem.

When we remove one, we alter that balance. That is why I dwelt on the compost and cover crop or replacement crop elements of weed peppering. This is not something done willy-nilly, without any thought.

Each plant must be investigated for its role in nature and what it contributes on the physical, astral and causal planes. This requires both physical science and spiritual science. Then we must take intelligent and appropriate action to further the development of that ecosystem if we want the highest yields and quality, no diseases or insect problems, the lowest operating costs and the greatest profit for the work and money we put into it.

When I first got involved in biodynamics about 25 or so years ago, the only reference to weed peppering I had ever heard of was in the old English translation of Dr. Steiner's lectures. In it, and in Malcolm's translation, Dr. Steiner makes no reference to the many considerations one must make when peppering, only that it is possible to do it, both with plants and animal skins.

More importantly, back then, and this continues to this day, NOBODY on the BDA biodynamic "lecture circuit" or at Rudolf Steiner College where I attended lectures on biodynamics talked or talks now about these important matters and relationships, these important aspects of peppering. It's like saying you should put gas and oil in a car and here's how, but nobody's around to teach you how to drive it.

(I gotta laugh, Peter. Last year, Gina Nonini, one of three "official" biodynamic transition "experts" listed on the JPI website, gave a lecture in Sebastopol/Forestville, CA. She inherited a 600 acre or so vineyard with worthless Palomino grapes. At the lecture, according to someone who works for me who was in attendance, she said that she couldn't make a living growing grapes biodynamically, so she was out lecturing people on how to farm biodynamically. No further comment is necessary.)

The MOST important point to make is that when we artificially remove a "weed" from the ecosystem, we must do something to replace it and make things more, not less, evolved. Thus, your comment that weeds make the best compost material is absolutely correct. But which weeds? BTW, weeds should be harvested after they have bloomed and before they go to seed.

The simplest and fastest way to improve your soil is by spreading 20 to 40 cubic yards of compost per acre per year using the formula I gave earlier in this thread. Dr. Carver recommend 20 cubic yards per acre per year. Then plant a permanent biologically complex cover crop with no less than 20 species in it, then, using no-till methods, plant a crop if you can use no-till.

Well, then there is the other aspect to weeds. That is that they tell us what is wrong and what is right with our soils. Arden Andersen has written a good book on this subject and there's a pretty worthless biodynamic book on this too. Far more research must be done. As I have often stated, there is the question of what role each plant plays in Nature and it far exceeds the simple addition of nutrients to the soil.

Witness the addition of intelligent nitrogen as opposed to dead nitrogen. But also witness how certain plants make ideal homes for other plants and insects creating symbiotic and synergistic relationships.

We can, through intelligent compost making, as I described before, speed up the process of soil building and soil evolution remarkably with the preps, compost and cover-crops/companion plants.

It takes Nature a thousand years to make between one inch and one foot of topsoil in the plains. We can do that in 10 years if we work at it. And of course, we need those weeds.

So pepper carefully. The weed you remove may be the linchpin for your entire ecosystem.

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Post by Mark » 21 Dec 2006, 10:56

13/9/06

To All,

I have struggled for a long time to decide whether or not to make this information public. It's not so much that it's proprietary. It has been. It's that this knowledge, in the wrong hands, could destroy a country. I offered it to my US government and all I got was silence. I am absolutely convinced the the US government is suicidal. Bush, the leaders in the Pentagon, CIA, FBI and the Democrats would rather see our country and world destroyed than lose their grip on power. None of these elites listen, or care to listen, to what the average person wants, needs or thinks. Well, I made them the offer. They ignored it. Now I'm making this knowledge available to anyone and everyone in the world who wants to learn it.

If you're interested, read on. If this doesn't scare the living H out of you, I don't know what it will take.

The 2 acre part of my property I sprayed with my dalis grass homeopathic pepper spray in 2004 now exhibits a 99% death rate for this plant, even after 2 weeks of off and on rain.

As far as I'm concerned, this is proof enough that it works.

Now I can, and will, say with 100% confidence that my new weed pepper formula will stop and prevent the growth of any selected plant. What I've learned in this experiment is the basis for making identical remedies for any other plant or crop that I, or anyone else, wants to kill off. This can all be done without any poisons, chemicals, GMO/GE's, viruses, bacteria, pathogenic fungi or insects. It's completely safe for other plants, all animals and humans and effects only the species you want to target. Since I sprayed my lot in 2004, I've figured out how to increase the potency and improved the application process such that it is now at least 3 times more powerful.

I'm going to teach the whole thing, and many more secrets, at our new Center for the Future of Farming (www.thefutureoffarming.org) as a weed control method. I will teach anyone who wants to know how to spray it remotely so you can apply it to any field anywhere from your dining room table, at home. That process can't be taught on bdnow or online. It has to be learned in person. A few people already know how to do it and have done it successfully in field tests. I'll teach it at the Center for the Future of Farming.

So, just so you are all are crystal clear about this discovery, this knowledge gives the power to anyone in the world to be able to get rid of any plant, OR CROP, from any distance, anywhere in the world. It doesn't matter if it's tulips, poppies, petunias, blueberries, raspberries, GE cotton, GE corn, GE soybeans or, even worse for many nations, OP wheat, corn, soybeans, sorghum, tomatoes, lettuce, peaches or any other commercial crop on Earth. It works on any "weed" you want to get rid of. Believe me, this goes WAY beyond peppering.

This, my friends, is the legacy of Rudolf Steiner too.

My new weed control formulas and protocols, which I will teach to any willing student, will work in less than 2 years on all herbaceous plants by direct contact, three years by remote application. You name it, now you can stop it from anywhere on the globe. Once it's stopped in a given area, it will not grow again for 10 to 20 years even without subsequent spray applications either on site or remotely.

As you can see, this could be used for great good, or great evil. Yeah, this could cause chaos. Or create a Garden of Eden. Like E=MC2, I'm just putting out the knowledge.

As I said, being patriotic, I offered it for sale to the US government for their war on drugs and they didn't even have the courtesy of responding to my offer. Well, so be it. The US government is suicidal. So, now, rather than sell the technology to an enemy government or Monsanto who would use it for the detriment of the world, I'm letting the whole world know how to do it.

There is an antidote, by the way.

The basics for making these remedies will go up on the www.thefutureoffarming.org and mywww.gwagriculture.com websites. In the wrong hands, this is extremely dangerous knowledge. In the right hands, it will put the glyphosate/GMO/GE people out of business. And just so no one gets any wrong ideas, there are copies of the procedure located around the world in the hands of people I can trust who will publish it if something happens to me. I'm not paranoid. Just knowledgeable.

Do you all understand what power this unleashes? Just think. It all started with Steiner's lectures on agriculture. I've just taken it to its logical conclusion. Remote spraying. Or field broadcasters for that matter. It's just knowledge. What you do with it determines your karma. How about spraying our fungal propellant (the opposite potency of Fungus Interruptus?) on a map in order to increase pathogenic fungi on crops like corn and wheat you don't want your enemy to harvest? Want rust? Got rust. Or, you could save their crop. It's up to you.

I've even invented a spray that destroys the flavors in anything you apply it to - permanently. Works in the field and remotely. We've tested it.

I'm sure you all understand the deadly seriousness of this technology and how it could be abused, or, on the other hand, create a tremendous boon to farmers and everyone in the world.

Just to recap for all you people who know little or nothing about me and my company, in the last 14 years, among other things, I've discovered the cure for bacterial and viral diseases in plants, found the way to stop and prevent the growth of pathogenic fungi, figured out how to make fungus grow (like mushrooms), figured out how to safely stop the growth of specific unwanted plants or crops, and I'm finishing my work on stopping unwanted insects from invading a field. I've discovered how to do all this through remote spraying.

I'll be teaching anyone who wants to learn this at the Center for the Future of Farming.

Here's the fun part. In addition to all this, I've got a product that causes the delay of bloom, another that prevents frost damage down to 24 degrees, others that prevent fungi from invading pruning cuts, make your plants flower, increase sugar, decrease sugar, speed up ripening, slow down ripening, release nutrients in the soil (just got the confirming lab tests on that one), dry out a field in 24 to 48 hours, make your fruit or breasts larger (by one or two sizes), increase seed germination rates and speed, eliminates transplant shock and enhances and intensifies flavors, just to mention a few.

I've discovered other products that make your hair grow back, a product that stops pain in 2 -3 minutes, others that help you fall asleep, wake up in the morning, clear your thinking, makes your body produce pheromones, ease your joints, smooth your skin, make you relax, help you meditate and two that can dramatically enhance your sex life.

Onward and upward. You all will be able to learn these and more secrets at the newCenter for the Future of Farming in Santa Fe, NM, USA.

Well, some of you may think I'm crazy. I'm not. I'm a student of history. I know whatpeople are capable of doing and the pattern of activity that all new discoveries unleashin a world full of immature souls.

This is just knowledge. Nothing is good or bad, but thinking makes it so.

This could be one of the most dangerous technologies in the history of the world, or oneof the most beneficial. It's up to all of you now. It's not a burden I want to norwill carry alone anymore.

If you want to learn it, I'll teach it to you.

Greg

Mark
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Post by Mark » 21 Dec 2006, 10:57

17/9/06

To All,

I am not paranoid. Here's the proof.

Allow me to preface this email with the disturbing news, and this is the absolute truth, that I have been warned that the retired 3 star Marine general to whom I offered the instructions for weed peppering for our military has now called me a traitor, reportedly more than twice, and apparently threatened to send our CIA after me.

Well, I'll be happy to give them the complete course. For a fee. I would prefer that they get it. And below is the antidote I mentioned in the earlier email.

Well, now they've pushed me to the wall with their threats. In response, so that everyone knows how to do this, I'm publishing the final piece of the puzzle for weed peppering with homeopathic sprays. And the antidote. Now that should make everyone happy, wouldn't you think.

It is as follows: The New Moon carries with it regeneration forces and the maturing and hardening off of seeds. The Full Moon carries with it generation and germination/formative forces, the germination of seeds. Spray the fields with the anti-regeneration forces at the New Moon. Spray the fields with the anti-germination forces at the Full Moon. The D9 spray contains the anti-seed formation forces, the regenerative forces. The D10spray contains the anti-seed germination forces. By spraying the anti-germination forces at the germination force time, we neutralize those forces. By spraying the anti-seed formation or anti-formative forces at -regeneration time, we neutralize these forces.

So, the D9 spray is applied at the New Moon, and the D10 spray applied at the Full Moon. You can also use D18 and D19 instead of D9 and D10. You can even go to D27 and D28 if you need to make a lot. In fact, D27 and D28 would give the best results of the three levels we’ve discussed. Here is the antidote. A simple application of the opposite strength pepper spray cancels out the effects. So that would be at D8 and D11 for the lower numbers D9 andD10, and D17 and D20 for D18 and D19, and D26 and D 29 for the highest potencies.

What happens if you spray just the antidote in the fear that someone else is spraying your fields? Nothing. No negative and no positive effect. They only work to neutralize what HAS been sprayed.

In other words, on any area sprayed with the primary potencies, one can apply the opposite potencies and that will prevent any change in the effects. Interesting, isn't it?

As I warned everyone on this list, this knowledge is the equivalent to E=MC2. Apparently the mere threat that this information could get out has pissed of a retired general who should know better. Used rightly, it can create a Garden of Eden on Earth. No more need for herbicides. No more worries about Round Up resistant pigweed and other plants. No more worries about agricultural poisons in the environment. In the wrong hands, well, you know, it can cause problems.

This is just knowledge. But apparently, our military, at least one of them, is furious that I let this particular cat out of the bag. Well, they had their chance. This particular officer was just the last in a series of attempted contacts I've made with our government over the past THREE YEARS, never getting one returned phone call or email. Now, when I throw it in their faces, they're all mad at me. What can you do with people like that? I'd still be happy to teach it to them. For a fee. But if they join bdnow and read the emails in the bdnow archives, they can decipher it for themselves.

In the mean time, there's nothing stopping any of you from putting this series of emails up on any other email list to which you now belong, or from forwarding it to your friends, and asking them to forward it to their friends, and their friends, and their friends. The more people who know about it, the better it is for everyone.

Cheers,

Greg

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